Hot Time, Summer in the City ... !

I'm writing now (on July 23) when the temperature has finally found a home below 90 degrees, and the humidity is tolerable.  In fact, as I write now the Mid Manhattan Library is cooled just by fans.  The big ones, whirring as I type, wafting warm breezes around these second floor stacks.

But these past weeks!  OMG! (As certain of the youthful set might have remarked.)  Some of my travelers were delighted with the Water Feature on the High Line:

 And still others took the invitation for a dip a little too literally!

 But it certainly is a welcome feature, for otherwise it can be pretty hot up there.

 Later that day I looked down Broadway from above Great Jones Street - and there gleamed No. 1 World Trade Center:

 The next day, as I was walking with my two visitors from Wisconsin, who should I spot but:

 "Tom" turkey?  Yes!  A wild turkey, calmly walking along the promenade of Battery Park City -

 - conversing with other visitors to the park.  Right?

But, for other would-be wild animals, in other climes, I'm sure this was a hot, hot, time! 

Spring Really Has Arrived! Time to Get Out!

Join Us for a Walk Monday, May 20 - Free!

 Monday I will be meeting a friend and taking a walk on the High Line in the late morning, starting at about 30th Street - the present top of the High Line.  If you're planning to be in the neighborhood (of 30th Street and 10th Avenue), at about 10:30 to 11, well, we'll be walking over from Penn Station to begin our walk!  Drop me a line - or call at 917-921-9273 - we'll have a walk!  (Yes, it's free!  Just for fun!)

Paris, continued ...

My visit to Paris enabled me to experience what it's like to really be a stranger in a city - like many I take around in New York.  Only having read guide books, and books about Paris, just how would I do?

Yes, figuring out what to do next can be very challenging!

But, Paris is, and I almost hate to say it, easier than New York to get to know and enjoy.  Expecially if, like me, you have booked at a hotel in the center of where you want to be.  I was booked at the Hotel Central Saint Germain, at 3 rue Champollion right in the center of the 5th arrondissement - the Latin Quarter, and right around the corner from the main building of the Sorbonnes.  

The view from my window might not seem like much, but the window itself was quite accommodating, opening in quite wide to let fresh (albeit chilly!) air in.  So, well, normal!  I enjoyed just walking out to begin the day.  And so on my third full day I ventured to the Metro! 

What I saw on my first day, which was a clean, quiet subway, was surpassed on my third.  Who would have imagined the extent to which good design had gone? 

Oh, sure!  We have art in our subways too - but really?  Hardly!  How can these stay clean and visible - unobscured by graffiti?  I don't know!  There is graffiti in Paris, but, well, not here!  

This was the Sorbonne/Cluny Station, near the St. Michel/Notre Dame station, and each is connected to the other underground.  Although I used the No. 4 line most, and did that morning on my way over the Seine (I do mean under!) to Montmartre, the No. 1 was the first to be opened, on July 19, 1900 - exactly nine years before my father was born (in Altoona, Pennsylvania, but that's a completely different story).  

Yes, I was on my way to Sacre Coeur on Montmartre - the mount of the Martyr St. Denis, the patron saint of Paris.  

I had begun my morning looking out my window, as usual, checking the weather - and looking for that glimmer of sun that might promise a good day.  Ah hah!  I see it!  Perhaps today is the day for Montmartre!  The temperatures in Paris were pretty much the same as they were in New York, and the weather too.    So, I went our for my "formule."

I learned of this on my second morning: for 15 more cents, I could get a fresh-squeezed glass of orange juice!  Just the thing to help me begin the day.

I entered the No. 4 line, and joined the passengers on their way north, to Montmartre.  But, can you see?  The cars in this new metro are not separated from each other as they are on their older ones, and as they are in New York's subway.  It's all "one car" so to speak!  One can walk freely front to back, no problem.  People sat in their seats, some reading, some talking, and there isn't noise or commotion to interrupt them - and to make their journey uncomfortable.  Hmm.  How civilized!  In one of the oldest transit systems in the world.  (I'm told I should now see what Moscow has done!)

When I exit the Metro, I sense where the hill is, and proceed.  I see a sign pointing to Sacre Coeur, and walk there - and here are clustered some of the many scooters and motor bikes that are all over Paris.  Wonder of wonders, the traffic in Paris.

What seems to brilliant about Paris is the sense of business, or purpose, but without the frenetic scurrying that so permeates New York.    I continue up the hill.

Yes!  I see the sun! 

And, I see the stairs.

No problem, there's a railing, and it's one step at a time.  I knew there was a hill (a guide book had warned me), and I enjoy this climb.  For, at the top: 

The Basilica of Sacre Coeur was begun in 1875 and completed in 1914, but only officially dedicated after the end of World War 1, in 1919.  Officially dedicated to the 58,000 lost in that conflict, it is more customarily held in honor of those many who died in the gypsum mines and tunnels in that butte during the uprising of the communard in 1871 in that very neighborhood.  

I realize how little I know of French history!  There is so much, so many conflicts, so many different governments and organizations - so much life.  I went into the basilica - noting that photography is not permitted.  

I have obtained through Wikipedia, however, a photograph of that interior so that you can appreciate the beauty: 

(From Wikipedia)

Turning around, and walking out, I saw - Paris! 

You might just make it out in the far distance, toward the left.  It's the Montparnasse Tower; at 689 feet high (210 meters) and built from 1969 to 1972, it is so out of place in the cityscape that respects only the Eiffel Tower is the reigning tall structure.  The Montparnasse Tower is the tallest building in Paris proper (and second only to Tour First in the Paris suburbs at 271 meters or 758 feet high).  But neither is taller that the Eiffel Tower: it is 279.22 meters, or 915.7 feet, high - which is not in this view. 

But the best view of Paris is from the top of the Montparnasse Tower - because it's not in that view! 

So, yes, I loved Paris - and will go back.  There really is no comparison I can make that can do anything except make New York seem to be of an entirely different species.  Paris is the biggest village I've ever seen. 

The Early Spring Update

The Street Teacher Visits - Paris!

Surprise surprise!  Yes, I finally got all my frequent-flyer points together and booked a round-trip flight to the City of Light.  There must be a reason I still remember the French I took for six years - through junior and senior high school - and for 6 weeks at the Alliance Française in New York (during the Monica Lewinsky dust-up - that's how I remember the time, because our teacher was so amused by the "moral outrage" that would have been dismissed in a moment in France!).

I was so nervous about choosing the flight - the right flight - that I simply called my agent: American Express Travel.  After all, it was their "points" I would use, so why not get that out of the way and be most efficient about it.  

Well, as many of you may know, the least expensive flights are rarely the most direct ones.  So, I may have booked through American Airlines, but it was Iberia that took me first to Madrid, then to Paris.  The photo above was taken from the window seat of the second leg of that flight - a little cramped for sure, but for just a little less than two hours - although we did have to wait on the ground for 45 minutes before taking off.  And the first, night flight I had the aisle seat.  Much better. 

But the plane was full indeed; the young woman sitting next to me was a graduate student at the Stern School of Business at NYU with about 15 students on their way to Morocco to study the way women are treated in that country.  A most "un-spring-break-like" Spring Break, indeed! 

Landing in Madrid at about 6 in the morning (I left JFK I think a little before 7 on the previous evening), I had a connection to make for the ultimate arrival at Orly in Paris at 10:10.  

But how to know where the flight is! 

Sure!  The Airport is gorgeous - but there was - is - no signage upon exiting customs directing us to that connection - none whatsoever!  All those students were, of course, connecting to an entirely different flight, so where they were going wasn't necessarily where I would go - and did they know where to go? 

The airport is huge - and makes JFK seem like LaGuardia in comparison.  But, of course, in spite of seeing no one who was official in any way, I managed to find one sign with all the flights on it; there was no gate, yet, but at least I knew where to look for it.  

Yes, after that 45 minute wait on the ground, we're off to Orly - and arrive 10 minutes early.  They're tricky, these pilots. 

Yes!  Off the RER B at St. Michel/Notre Dame, and I'm in the Latin Quarter!  Who couldn't love this?!  I'm only a few blocks from my hotel - although, truth be told, it was a challenge to navigate the unusual arrangements of the streets.  Those of you who think getting around in Greenwich Village can be a challenge - well!  Paris for a new-comer can be a real challenge! 

My room was ready - I had arrived after 12 - and I went up.  Here's my view out one of the two windows of my room.  Quite adequate - and only on the fourth floor (the ground floor there is 0, not 1, by the way - and there is an elevator), so it would be easy to go in and out.  Only 35 rooms in this little hotel (The Hotel Central Saint Germain, at 3 Rue Champollion). 

My room - 

- was quite comfortable - although this picture may betray the fact that I took this picture in the latter part of the day - after my requisite tasting of red wine (I always bought wine for less than 3 Euro - or $3.86 - wine is the one thing that is really cheap there).

But once I dropped my bag - I was out on the street again.  Paris is definitely a walking city.  You simply have to walk; I took the metro occasionally (and you should also at least buy the "Carnet," or ten ticket choice: its "full price" is 12.70 Euro, whereas an individual ticket is 1.70.  Do the math, and you'll see that the individual price is cheaper than New York's - although one cannot transfer freely to a bus, although one can, within zones, transfer between the suburban RER trains (which take one to the airports) and the Metro for free.  Definitely worth it. 

There are all sorts of "passes" available, and if you're intending to visit museums then they're worth checking out: http://goparis.about.com/od/transportation/ss/Metro_and_Buses_4.htm and http://www.parismetro.com/, which last site covers almost everything you could imagine doing there.  It will consume a whole day to determine just which package will suit your desires - but it may be worth it!  

Suffice it for this traveler, however, to say that I didn't indulge in the Louvre, or the Gare d'Orsay, or even some of the smaller museums.  Except for the Musée des Beaux Arts, which I stumbled upon as I walked - on a day when it was free, as it happened - I didn't visit too many obvious tourist sites.  

Except, of course, for Notre Dame. 

Yes, it was a little cloudy that day, and rainy even, but not a deluge, and nothing I couldn't manage with my umbrella.  (No, I didn't betray my nationality with a baseball hat!  I had a beret - which I lost over there, and which few French in Paris actually wear.) 

This year, however, is very special for the Cathedral de Notre Dame, for it is celebrating the 850th year since it's construction was begun. 

So there are tourists!  But, and in a way this felt a little weird, most of them were French, and French school children too.  So, I was among the French nonetheless virtually all the time. 

I arrived on March 16, a Saturday, so I was looking forward to attending services at Notre Dame on March 17, St. Patrick's Day.  So, I got up early the next morning - 

- and had my petit dejeuner formüle for 4 Euro early, looking out toward the Place St. Michel.  After I  walked the short distance over to Notre Dame. 

Yes, I could think, well, it's smaller than the Cathedral of St. John the Divine - but it's finished and it's 850 years old!  I was there comfortably early, before the 8:30am service, and found a good seat in the first 10 or 15 rows of the nave. 

Ah, no, I couldn't imagine Quasimodo swinging on his bell rope to rescue Esmeralda - but I'll have a greater appreciation of the movie when I see it again! 

End - Part 1

Sledding in Central Park - A Perfect Morning!

 Oh, last Saturday we saw winter come - but winter almost as it should if it were scheduled by all the powers that be: companies, schools, governments: the snow accumulated for our enjoyment on the weekend!  No businesses that I know of had to be closed (of course, I stand to be corrected!), and certainly few schools had to be closed, and if you got up early you could easily enjoy the best sledding day of the year (and possibly the only one, if both Punxatawnie Phil and Staten Island Chuck groundhogs are right and we're due for an early spring!):

The hills were alive with the sound of children and scrunching snow - and snow that wasn't wet yet either.  Of course, it didn't make for good snow balls, but it was perfect for sledding.

 And skiing too!  Yes, skiing in Central Park - I saw one young person walking past with his skis, on his way to the Great Lawn, perhaps:

And a friend sent me a picture of herself completely outfitted for a cold day on skis!  

Yes, it was winter - at least last week.  Now?  Well, spring is in the air, I'm afraid, and I doubt we shall see any more significant snow in the city ... maybe!  Check out the video - and enjoy a morning sledding!

Is it Winter Yet?

The winter is just begun, although I'm looking at this new year as a different kind of beginning; it's really a beginning to a different sort of season altogether.  "The Street Teacher" may morph into a subcategory of me, and not occupy my full time efforts as it used to.

The Great Lawn under a light coating of snow, signifying that maybe more will come!

So, while I will be preparing walking tours for the New Year, and I will make every effort to make them interesting and thought provoking, I will also devise a few longer tours too.

First, I have other obligations:

1.  Yes, I have tickets to the inauguration!  Well, not to all the social hoopla, but at least I'll be a little closer to the capital building.  Although the last time (aka the first Obama Inaugural) it was still far away with a ticket.

2.  And, while down in Washington I'm going to re-familiarize myself as best I can with the lay-out of the city.  I have a lot of trips to take down there this spring.

3. February will be a busy month: it will see the celebration of the 100th anniversary of the opening of Grand Central Terminal on February 2.  Which is also the first day of an intensive 5 week training period to certify me as a Grand Central docent; I will do at least 2 tours a month for the year.

4.  I have also been thinking about a break from the city with a voyage to Paris in March.  But, the dates have yet to be decided while other things are up in the air!

What other things?

Well, a partnership is being discussed among three of us to more forcefully present myself and my services.  And more news of that will be forthcoming.

Sure!  I'll let you know!

It's time to cast off the old, and renew one's spirit with new enthusiasms, new places and people, more knowledge of history and others' plans for the future - out futures!

Stay tuned!

The Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park

Franklin Delano Roosevelt

Perhaps the most important addition to our neighborhood, and to Manhattan and New York generally, is the opening of the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park on Roosevelt Island.

Originally known as Hog Island when Dutch governor Wouter Van Twiller purchased it in 1637 from the Carnarsie Indians, and then Blackwell's Island after a brief time when it was known as Manning's Island (his father-in-law, Captain John Manning, who captured it from the Dutch in 1666), its name was changed to Welfare Island in 1921 to highlight its main use since the opening of the Smallpox Hospital in 1856 as designed by James Renwick, Jr.  

Since 1973, however, when it was named after our 32nd president, we have known it as Roosevelt Island.  Finally, and I'll wager that until recently many didn't even know there was this memorial planned, we have it on view.

After getting off the Tram (which was opened in 1976 as a temporary measure, but has since become an attraction in itself - and is now integrated into our Metrocard system so that you don't need their own special tokens!), one walks back toward Manhattan (Roosevelt Island, in spite of itself, is part of the borough of Manhattan, by the way) and then to the left, walking down along the parapet. 

Yesterday, October 24, 2012, was the so-called "Grand Opening." The weather wasn't quite so "grand," and continued damp and chill throughout the day.  It was perhaps more intimate, however, and I enjoyed communing with this environment.

I mentioned the Smallpox Hospital.  That is certainly an attraction, and one worth examining.  Let's see what we have to examine: 

Well!  Not really inviting, is it?  But on closer inspection, the structure has been re-enforced a bit.  It was made a landmark on November 25, 1975, which put a stop (or at least a slowing down) to its continuing decay.

We can see, as we walk on down to the new park, other aspects of the building:

The east face of the Smallpox Hospital

The Southern facing side

We have now arrived at the beginning of the park, which comprises just 4 acres.  Yesterday, I had to come down the eastern side of the island because of some work being done on the pathway.  In fact, as one looks at the picture just above, the ground in the forefront was quite slippery in the rain.  I have been assured, by the very person in charge, Ms Sally Minard, President of the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park LLC, who was there yesterday morning (and who assured me that I was the very first tour guide of the city to be there!) that this situation will be corrected quite soon. 

So!  How does it all look?

 At first I was struct by the massiveness of the stone, and its comparative plainness.  Compared to what?  Oh, I don't know - maybe my imagination?  But - I'm not going to be a quick judge!  I'm going to stay a while and become acquainted with what is the last work of Louis Kahn, a great architect suddenly felled by a heart attack in Penn Station soon after he had drawn up these plans.  A little respect is only right. 

 I was immediately struck by these steps.  There seemed something very inviting about them; with the sight of the trees in the near distance, even something inviting ...

Oh, my God!

It's true, FDR isn't exactly in a spot light; look up to the top of this post, and you'll see him closer.  But on first approaching this memorial his head is almost a mystery.  Yet, well, he invites you to approach. 

I felt it quite literally took my breathe away, and he died at only 63 years of age.

I walked behind this sculpture (by Jo Davidson), and saw the four freedoms that Roosevelt cited in his speech in January of 1941: 

We are not there yet.

So, in the "room" that Louis Kahn designed, let's look out, and across the East River: 

Can we at least hope?